Damaged Hair: What Is It, How does it Happen and Why Afro Textured Hair Is Prone to It ?

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“Damaged” is a word no one wants to hear when their hair is described because it often means breakage and hair loss isn’t too far behind. I find that many blog posts focus on setting out causes of damage and how to avoid it.  This is great and I have done the same in previous posts.  In an effort to add another facet to the topic and to bring more understanding to anyone reading I would like to share more of what exactly damage is and the reasons why afro textured hair is more susceptible to damage than other hair types.

 

 

What is Damage? 

Damage is degradation of hair fibres.  After hair grows out of our scalp, the fibres will begin to sustain damage from various things such as harsh weather conditions, harsh products, chemical processes, hair care practices, general wear and tear and styling choices.

Even with great hair care, our hair will sustain some damage due to general wear and tear.  What we can do is control the severity of damage and slow down how quickly it occurs through hair care.  Damage can be sustained quickly over a few months (resulting in high levels of breakage and unhealthy looking hair that seems stagnant in length) or happen gradually over several years (resulting in longer and healthier looking hair).
Everyone’s hair is damaged, just to different degrees or severity.

Hair care preserves hair fibres so the that wear and tear or damage occurs at a much slower pace.  The better our hair fibres are preserved, the healthier our hair will look and feel and the longer the fibres will go without breakage.
Bad hair care and bad hair styling practices will speed up the damage and wear and tear of hair fibres  resulting in unhealthy looking hair and breakage much much quicker than hair that is well cared for. For example, flat ironing hair every wash day will likely result in hair becoming damaged which may break off or need to be cut after a few months.  If hair is flat ironed 2 to 3 times a year, the hair will not become damaged as quickly.  This along with other hair care practices, will help the hair fibres look healthy, have very little breakage and go several years without the need for a major cut.

 

 

How Does It Occur?

Damage usually begins at the outer layer.
The layers of the cuticles and the bonds between the layers are broken and weakened when hair is being damaged.  This makes the cuticle layer thinner and in some cases the cuticle layer is totally removed.  The cuticle layer is supposed to protect the inner layers and once weakened or destroyed, it allows the inner layer sustain damage what will eventually lead to breakage.  Damage to the cuticle layer is also the first step in the forming of a split end.
Hair with damaged cuticles will look and feel damaged.  Hair with little or minimal damage to its cuticle layer will look and feel healthy.  Understanding this has made me respect the cuticle layer so much more.  This knowledge greatly influences how I choose and use my hair care products, which practices I complete and how I select ingredients for Infusions by Hairducation hair care products.

 

 

 

Why Black Hair Gets Damaged Easier Than Other Hair Types

 

The main reasons why black hair is much more susceptible to damage and breakage is to do with the unique shape/structure of our hair fibres. Being very brief, three reasons why our hair gets damaged and breaks much more easily is set out below.

1 – Each curl and kink in our hair is an area of weakness (the fibre is thinner in those spots) which means our hair has several points at which at the risk of breakage is higher.

2 – Curly/kinky hair is much more prone to tangling and this increases the risk of wear and tear, damage and breakage.

3- One of the most forgotten reasons why our hair sustains damage easily because afro textured hair has less cuticle layers than the hair of other races.  This means our hair has less protection than other hair types.

 

Our hairs structure means that it requires care using particular methods and rich products to stay well preserved (healthy) and to retain length.  Unfortunately, we often have the most aggressive hair care and hair styling practices, the very things our hair does not cope well with.

Products which are able to penetrate and help strengthen the inner layers of hair, help maintain the integrity of the cuticle layer, reduces the forming of tangles and reduces the damaging impact of detangling by lubricating hair fibres should be in your hair products arsenal.

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And yes I am pushing my market and very proudly so because I know the infusions by Hairducation Hair + Scalp Oil is a highly effective hair product that does all the above.

 

I hope you have learnt something valuable form this post that will have a positive impact on your care.

More blog posts coming soon.

 

Lade

 

How I Scammed Myself and Ended Up With Protein Overload

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I know my hair; I know her well.
I’ve invested 10 years in this relationship with her.  When she acts out I know what I’ve done wrong and how to fix it.  One of the first things I learnt about my hair is that it does not respond well to being deep conditioned with moisture alone or protein alone.  I always have to use a mix of both to get the right balance of strength and softness.
When I use a protein deep conditioner on its own, my hair feels very rough and brittle.  When I use a moisture deep conditioner alone, my hair feels excessively soft. Please note that this does not happen to everyone’s hair , many ladies can use protein or moisture alone and have their hair respond well to it.

I have many products I’ve used over the years and currently my go to moisture and protein deep conditioner are from the Motions brand.  My hair responds even better to them now they have levelled up on the ingredients by removing the crappy ingredients and replacing them with natural oils.
I was reviewing the ingredients in the moisture conditioner (Motions Active Moisture Plus) and the protein treatment (Motions CPR- Critical Protection and Repair) and noticed they had extremely similar ingredients and even the same type of proteins.

 

Why Moisture Conditioners Have Proteins In Them

I wasn’t suspicious about why a moisture conditioner had protein ingredients in it, in fact, I expect good moisture conditioners to have a small amount of protein in it.  Why, because protein ingredients will help hair fibres hold on to or retain moisture ingredients for longer.  This way hair stays softer and has good elasticity for longer.  This feature is quite important for ladies with normal to high porosity hair.  It’s actually quite smart of product formulators to make this move. Please note that it may not be great for those with low porosity hair

 

 

How I Scammed Myself

What raised my concern was that the ingredients were more or less the same, just in a different order and that both had protein listed as the 11th and 12th the ingredient.

The first 12 Ingredients in the protein conditioner are

  1. Water
  2. Coconut Oil
  3. Castor Oil
  4. Soybean Oil
  5. Biotin
  6. Shea Butter
  7. Vitamin E
  8. Olive Oil
  9. Argan Oil
  10. Aloe Vera Extract
  11. Hydrolyzed Silk
  12. Hydrolyzed Oat Protein

 

The first 12 ingredients in the moisture conditioner are

  1. Water
  2. Soybean Oil
  3. Shea Butter
  4. Argan Oil
  5. Olive Oil
  6. Coconut Oil
  7. Vitamin E Oil
  8. Sunflower Oil
  9. Castor Oil
  10. Aloe Vera Extract
  11. Hydrolyzed Silk
  12. Hydrolyzed Oat Protein

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I wondered, is Motions simply the packaging the same product with  slight adjustments and selling it as two separate products? Or the brand formulate it so that the percentage of protein in the CPR is much higher than the Active Moisture?

I decided a way to find out would be to use the protein deep conditioner on its own to see the effect it had on my hair.  I had used the moisture alone on a small part of my hair in the past so I would compare the effects.

Wash day came and I put my plan into action.
Ladies, from the second I applied the CPR (protein one) to my hair I knew I had entered one chance (Nigerian slang for a bad situation).  My hair felt rough and angry as I was applying it in comparison to when I use a mix of the moisture and protein.
For some reason, I decided to carry on because I already knew how I would fix the impending disaster of rough tangle prone hair.  I hoped maybe it would feel different….feel better when I eventually rinsed out the products but it didn’t.
I spent the next week moisturising my hair more heavily than usual and it really helped soften my hair but the balance was still off…my hair still had a very rough texture.  I had to detangle way more often in those two weeks and the knots were more challenging to unravel.  This resulted in some breakage for sure.

I was so eager for my next wash day where I went back to using a mix of my moisture and protein deep conditioner and order has been restored to my hair world.  I basically had a corrective wash day and now it’s all good.  The image above is of my air dried hair after the corrective wash and condition.

 

Lessons to be learnt from this blog post

1 – Get to know your hair and give it what it responds well to

2 – Experimenting with a small section of your hair rather than your whole hair is wise

3 – The importance of judging a product based on how your hair responds to it rather than the brand or list

4 – A personal note to myself: who sent me (another Nigerian slang but I am not sure how to explain this one)

I hope you enjoyed and learnt a lil something from this post.  Next one coming soon.

x

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

My Favourite At Home Hair Care Tools

 

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Hello Ladies

To be honest, even I am shocked there is a new post up….and I feel really good about it too because it’s been so so long.
Rather than list a bunch of excuses I’ll just say life happens and a big thank you for all the love many of you have shown on Instagram which is more active than the blog has been of late.  I hope all has been well with you and your hair.

Jumping straight into this post, I wanted to share information and lessons about my favourite at home hair care gizmos. Frankly products are super important for preserving/maintaining the health of our hair but our tools matter too.  I’ve gone through soooo many tools over my years of hair care and the items listed in this post have made very positive impact on my hair journey.

In no particular order my faves are:

 

The Puff Cuff

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This is one of my most recent purchases and I wish I bought it years ago.
Sometimes, especially when I have a lot of new growth, using a hair band to create my buns and up-does can be frustrating.  Trying to loop the band around my hair can get uncomfortable but making the bands really loose gives me a funny neither here nor there poofy bun.

 

The Puff Cuff was designed for thick hair and allows me to secure my hair well without unnecessary pulling and tugging and discomfort.  What I really really like about it is that it lets me create “pineapple” type hairstyles which stays in place all day.
What to look out for Unfortunately sometimes when I ‘am taking of the Puff Cuff  the clasps catch on my hair a little but so long as I remove it carefully, it usually does not result in breakage.

 

 

 

Imitation of the Crea Clip

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I have been trimming my hair myself for several years and I am pretty sure I don’t do the best job but it’s certainly not terrible.
One of the tools that helps me achieve fairly decent results is this hair cutting/trimming tool. I trim my hair in approximately 12 sections and then I part my hair into two big sections combed forward so it hangs near my belly button.  I then use this tool to ensure each half is straight and do a final trim with this device holding my hair in place.  I like how the spirit level helps you ensure your line is straight and also how the grips of the clamp will keep your hair in place whilst you trim/cut.

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The original design of this is called  Crea Clip and it costs over £60 on Amazon but I paid under £10 for this knock off version also from Amazon.  I purchased mine over 5 years ago but they are still available for purchase at good prices.  I do think getting a professional trim is better but not everyone has that option or frankly some ladies just prefer to do it themselves.

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What to look out for. Ensure your hair is well detangled before using this or else your hair will be snagged by the little grips of the device.  Also I don’t completely lock the clasp of the device when I am using it so it does not drag my hair. I would recommend this for relaxed or texlaxed hair.  If your hair is virgin, you might need to have your hair blown out or flat irons before using this tool.

 

 

 

Hair Trimming Scissors

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Following on from point number 2 is my Sanguine hair scissors/shears.  I have written about this in an earlier post which you can read by clicking here. I’ve had this for a number of years now and the blades are not as sharp as they used to be so I am due for a new pair.

 

 

 

Jack Dean Pompadour Streaker Comb

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This is another recent-ish purchase and I LOVE this comb. At the beginning of the year, I realised I had lost all my good seam free wide tooth combs and tried to find new ones to purchase on good ol Amazon.  These caught my eye for 4 reasons

  • I noticed the ends/tips of the comb were blunt rather than sharp and pointy, I figured this would be a bit more gentle. I never feel as though it is tearing through my hair.  (please note that I use the comb gently and that my hair is finger detangled before I use it…. being rough will never end well no matter how fab the comb is)

 

  • I liked the wide spacing of the comb and although it isn’t classed as a seamless comb, they certainly never catch and break my hair.

 

  • It looked like it would be easy and comfortable to grip whilst being used…and it is.

 

  • Honestly, I thought they were cute and I ordered 4. I was sure they would work well and they were not too pricey so even if they turned out to be whack my soul would be okay.

 

  • Other great features about this carbon fibre comb is that it is anti-static, heat and chemical resistant and are surprisingly light weight.

What to look out for These combs are sturdy and extremely so.  I ‘am talking zero flexibility.  I have always had combs which had some “bend” and was used to how that felt when using them so initially it felt a bit weird using this.  The trick is to use this comb gently and slowly and you’ll be alright.

 

 

Wool and Boar Bristle Brushes

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Let’s be frank, I am not known for having very smooth sleek edges but when the spirit moves me and I decide to go for a more “put together” look I turn to one of these three options.

  • The brush with the wool bristles (the one in the middle) is literally the softest hair brush I have ever felt. It is so soft that it is only effective within the first three weeks of me texlaxing my hair.  Once my new growth starts to come in I switch to my boar bristle brushes because this one will no longer smoothen my hair.  I purchased this brush from Amazon and it is a baby hair brush.
    What to look out for – when you wash it smells like a goat….I kid you not 😉 .

 

  • The small boar brush (the one at the right) was actually supposed to be a dry face brush but I repurposed it for my hair and it works rather well. It was purchased as part of a dry body brush set from Amazon.  It is firm without being too aggressive when used with reason.  Please note I do NOT recommend daily brushing of edges even with a soft brush it will take a toll.

 

  • The two sides bristle brush (item on the left) is by far my oldest hair care tool. I’ve owned this for at least 12 years…way before I began my hair journey.  It was given to me by my sister in law and by “give” I mean she left it at my house and as far as I am concerned, by doing so, ownership of it transferred to me.  She has also “given” me some shoes and several other items over the years. J I only ever use the softer side of this brush.  I wouldn’t even think of using the firm side on the hair of an enemy.

 

 

 Scalp Massager

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This is an oldie but definitely a goodie I purchased in 2016.  I reviewed the massager in an earlier post which you can read by clicking here. I used it regularly for a while and then stopped…for no reason.   I really enjoy how great this feels especially after I have applied some tingling essential oils to my scalp and now I have begun using it again I really don’t know what I was thinking when I packed it away. I currently use this once or twice a week when I am doing a scalp massage.

 

I do have many other hair tools but I think the above is enough for one post.  I hope you’ve found something helpful in this post and I wonder if any of the items will make it to your shopping list.

What’s your favourite hair tool??

 

X

Lade

 

 

 

 

Essential Oils Revisited

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Essential Oils are extracted from plants and tend to be highly concentrated, have a strong scent and are volatile (evaporate very quickly).
They are so potent they must not be used directly, they must be added to a carrier oil before use.  “Normal” oils such as olive, coconut, avocado, grapeseed, almond, jojoba, Castor, etc are called carrier oils because they are ideal for “carrying” (being mixed with) essential oils.

Whilst carrier oils are great for sealing, act as great lubricants for hair and can boost shine, essential oils have a more therapeutic/medicinal function in hair care.

Although essential oils are not necessary for healthy hair care they are certainly beneficial.  There have been numerous scientific studies which show that essential oils have the following benefits:

  • They stimulate the scalp and promote healthy hair growth
  • They help nourish and strengthen hair follicles. When applied to the scalp, they are able to penetrate our hair follicles and impart their beneficial properties more directly.
  • They help wake up dormant hair follicles.
  • They increase blood circulation
  • They can prevent and fight inflammations which sometimes cause severe hair loss
  • Many essential oils contain anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-septic and anti-microbial properties
  • They help fight hair loss and premature greying due to their anti-oxidant properties
  • They promote scalp health

Please note that not all essential oils contain all the benefits listed above but all essential oils posses multiple properties which benefits our hair and scalp. Personally I use essential oils for three main reasons: Scalp health, overall health of my hair fibres and to stimulate hair growth.

 

 

How To Use Essential oils

I have written posts about using oils for healthy hair care which you can read by clicking here and here.  These posts will give you a tonne of helpful information that can make a significant difference to your hair regimen.  For your convenience however, I have pasted parts of the older posts, which show the ways you can incorporate essential oils into your hair regimen.

Pre-poo
A few drops of your essential oils can be added to the carrier oil or conditioner you apply to your hair as a pre-poo treatment.

Mixed Into Your Deep Conditioner
A few drops can be added to your deep conditioner. This will give have a stimulating effect on your scalp whilst you deep condition.  It will also enrichen your deep conditioner.

Scalp Massages
A mix of carrier and essential oils can be applied to your scalp and massaged in for a few minutes.

Please note that pregnant women should not use any essential oil unless they have been given permission by their doctor to do so.

 

 

New Additions to My Essential Oil Collection

Over the last year I have expanded my essential oil collection to 7 by adding Cedarwood, White Thyme  and Laurel Leaf.

Cedarwood
This is obtained from the wood parts of the Cedar Tree and has a woody sweet smell which I really like.  It is fast becoming one of my favourite essential oils and has the following benefits for hair.

  • It is anti-bacterial and anti-fungal
  • It promotes hair growth by increasing circulation to the scalp and has been shown in studies to help regrow hair and reduce thinning
  • It improves scalp health
  • It has mild sedative effect, so it is super calming and might help you nod off if you have trouble sleeping.
  • It is a natural antiseptic

Laurel Leaf ( also known as Bay Laurel essential oil)
This oil is derived from the leaves of the Bay Laurel tree.  I love it’s fresh and spicy scent and was not surprised to when I found out its use in men’s fragrance is prevalent.  It imparts a wide spectrum of benefits for healthy hair care such as

  • It is antiseptic, anti-fungal, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and also has natural antibiotic properties.
  • It is an astringent and this helps to prevent hair loss by tightening the grip of our hair follicles in the scalp.
  • It encourages hair growth
  • It helps to treat scalp ailments

 

White Thyme
This is obtained from the thyme herb and in my opinion smells like kerosene mixed with tea tree oil.  The scent and the oil itself is strooooooong and must be used in moderation!!!!  I am however able to look past this when I consider the benefits it has for hair which includes

  • It increases blood flow to the scalp
  • It help promote hair growth or re-growth where there has been hair-loss
  • It helps on the control of dandruff
  • It is antimicrobial and helps to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi.

 

 

Ladies do not sleep on essential oils, especially when you consider all the benefits listed above.   Essential oils are relatively easy to find across the US and Europe but for my ladies in Lagos they are not readily available but that will be changing because………. Cedarwood, Lemongrass, Peppermint, Tea Tree, Lavender and Rosemary will be available for purchase at Hairitage Salon very soon.

 
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Do you currently use essential oils in your regimen?  Which ones are your faves and how do you use them?

My next post will be a hair update and my first official length check.  I get asked very often exactly how long my hair is in inches, find out in my next post which also doubles as my texlax update.
I still don’t know how I managed to stretch to 7 months.

See you soon

x

Lade

Lean | Change | Grow

Texlax Update April 2018: Part 2

Hello Ladies

As promised, in this post I am going to share pictures of my hair which I texlaxed a month ago.  I am also discussing the major challenge I had with my hair last year, how it led to me cutting off over 5 inches off my hair and how I managed to maintain waist length hair despite the cut.

I failed ladies, I failed in getting pictures of my hair blow out.  I had reserved a day to get my wash and a few other things done but then I had a really bad fever so wash day was cancelled.  I washed it eventually the next day when I felt better but I air dried.  If you are new to Hairducation and my texlaxed hair you may not know that it shrinks when I air dry it so my hair looks shorter than its blown out length.  For anyone who wants to see my blown out length you will see it in my highlights on my IG page later today.  So with that said, the pictures in the post were taken on my last wash day when my hair was dry but my roots were still very damp.

 

 

 

 

My Major Hair Challenge from 2017

I moved to the UK for 9 months in March last year and arrived with hair that was in my opinion, the best it had ever been.  After a few months it just didn’t feel the same way, it tangled more, seemed to be changing colour and felt different and not in a good way. My hair looked okay but if didn’t feel as good as it should have.   I was baffled because I was keeping up with my regimen despite my crazy schedule at the time and using products that worked well for my hair.

I texlaxed in September 2017 and was shocked by how bad my ends were tangling even after deep conditioning.  Ladies when I say tangles, I mean grab a scissors and cut me out tangles.  For the first time in a long time I had to trim my ends because it needed a trim.  Usually I trim my hair on texlax day to keep my hair at waist length.  But this time those ends HAD to go so I trimmed off two inches and was still waist length.
By October I looked at my ends and thought hold up, I need another trim???? Why??? I’ve been good to my hair so why are my ends looking busted.   I trimmed off about an inch and half and my hair felt so much better.   Giving the issue some thought I realised it was the hard water prevalent in many parts of the UK.
The mineral in hard water penetrates the cracks of hair fibres and cannot be removed by normal shampoos.  The more porous the hair fibre is, the deeper and more affected the hair will be by the minerals.  The mineral will form a coating on the hair and prevent your hair products from working.  This will lead to discoloured and very dry hair which tangles and breaks.

I remembered how badly hard water affects my hair and decided to start chelating my hair once a month.  I was sure that would fix it because I had grown my hair from shoulder length to bra strap length in a hard water area of the UK following my current regimen.  I was convinced that increasing the regularity of my chelating would suffice.

After my return to Nigeria at the end of 2017, I began to panick because my hair was still acting crazy despite no longer being in a hard water area.  I could no longer predict how my would respond to products or techniques.  So being a research prone person, I dug deeper and found out exactly what the issue was.  It was……….hard water.  Yes …that was still the cause.  The residue of hard water was still in my hair and that was what was causing all the havoc.

I was puzzled  and didn’t understand why the hard water had such a horrible effect on my hair in comparison to my earlier years in the UK.  I carried out further research and discovered something I never realised.  There are varying levels of hard water.  Through my research I found that the area I lived in at the earlier part of my hair journey had hard water whilst the area I lived in in 2017 had extreme levels of hard water. You can compare the levels in the image below.

Despite my return to Nigeria, I realised I probably still had some hard-core mineral residue on my hair fibres.  I purchased and used a very strong swimmers shampoo by a brand called Ion.  I washed a second time with my Cream of Nature Argan Oil shampoo and deep conditioned as  normal. The difference to my hair was immediate but I trimmed off another two inches to get rid of thinned out ends.  I also realised why my ends bared the brunt of the hard water damage.  The ends of hair are the most porous parts of hair and as I mentioned earlier in this post, the more porous the hair, the more damage it will sustain from the hard water. The key lesson here is that for ladies who live in countries with hard water, find a way to check your hard water levels.  If it is high, consider getting a shower head hard water filter and use a strong chelating shampoo every 3 to four months to remove the minerals that may be on your hair fibres.  Don’t let hard water wreck your hair like it almost did mine.

 

My hair has been doing great since then and I am back to being happy with it and I hope you have learnt a thing or two from my experience.

Have you had any challenges with your hair recently?  How are you bouncing back from it?

My next post will be an educative post about split and damaged ends.  I will be sharing a few microscopic images of healthy and damaged ends. There will be loads to learn so see you soon

X

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow