Quick Tip: Read This If You Make Your Own Products Or Mix Commercial Products

When making your own natural hair products, (e.g. avocado, banana and honey hair masks, etc) or when altering or mixing commercial products, (e.g. mixing protein and moisture conditioners or adding water, oils or glycerin to your leave in products) it is always best to make very small batches that will be used on the day or for only a few days.

Why?
Because the lack of preservatives or alterations in the levels of preservatives may allow bacteria and fungi to grow in the product.

 

Fresh Aloe Vera is often used for homemade hair and skin products such as hair gels or face masks

In all natural homemade products there are usually no preservatives added so the chances of bacteria and fungi growing quickly in them is high. If you do make a natural hair product and have more than enough for one use, put it in a container, store it in the fridge and use within a week.

Preservatives are added to commercial products to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi until the use-by or expiry date of the product. Mixing two commercial products together or adding other ingredients to them will alter the preservative levels in a way that may allow bacteria and fungi to grow.
If altering commercial products, makes small batches that you can either use on the day or be used up within a week. These should be okay if kept on the shelf because there is some preservative left in them but if you want to be extra careful you can store it in the fridge.

I hope you’ve found this Quick Tip post helpful. The next blog post will be a bun of the month post.

Happy hair journey

x

Lade
Learn | Change | Grow

 

Constant Dryness and Frizz? Maybe its your Porosity!

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Hello ladies,

It’s been a while since I wrote an educative post and this one is certainly full of helpful information.

I remember prior to my hair journey, my hair was constantly dry probably because I wasn’t moisturising and sealing. I also noticed that my about half the length of my hair had a puffy frizzy rough look. I would use oil and heat to get my ends to look smoother, shiny and less puffy.
After I started my hair journey I noticed that my hair’s dryness improved significantly however the parts of my hair that were still rough and didn’t seem to retain moisture for long at all even though I sealed the moisture in with oils. I off course did some research about the possible causes and that was how I learnt about the term “hair porosity”.

In this post I will explain what porosity is, types of porosity and how to manage hair porosity.

 

What Is Porosity?

Hair porosity is about how well your hair is able to absorb and retain moisture. I.e. Is moisture easily absorbed by your hair and how long does your hair stay moisturised for after its been washed or after you have moisturised and sealed.

Types of Porosity

There are three types of porosity, high, normal and low porosity. Hairs porosity is determined by the state of the cuticle layer (the outermost layer of hair).  To prevent this post being too long I will only discuss high and low porosity as these are the types that can be problematic.

 

High Porosity

Hair has high porosity if it is easy for products to be absorbed by the hair but the hair does not retain moisture for long.  It begins to look and feel dry after a short period after it has been moisturised.

Hair has high porosity if the cuticle layer is cracked, chipped or has gaps and holes in it. The cuticles look lifted or raised under a microscope.
Hair with high porosity gets dry quickly, relaxers and hair colours work quickly on this hair type. This hair type also tends to feel rough and tangles easily. High porosity is usually caused by damage from use of chemicals and heat, i.e. relaxing, colouring, blow drying on high heat and using straighteners often.   The more processed your hair is, the more porous it will become.
Please note however that some ladies have hair that becomes porous easily from general wear and tear, i.e. from general hair care. It isn’t always caused by damage from chemicals and heat.

Tips for Managing High Porosity Hair

  • Use protein conditioners especially those that contain hydrolyzed proteins. Protein conditioners temporarily fill holes and gaps in our hairs structure. Conditioners that contain hydrolyzed proteins are better at binding with hair and filling in the gaps or wholes. If the hair fiber has less holes and gaps it will be able to retain moisture for longer. Please note that moisture conditioning must still be used regularly in your regimen. This is where trying to find out what your own protein/moisture balance levels are is important.
  • Use coconut oil for your pre-poo. As noted above, the porosity of hair is determined by how cracked, chipped or split the cuticle layer of hair is. On wash days, our hair fibers swell when wet and sometimes can swell to the extent that our cuticles can split or crack. This is known as hydral fatigue. Coconut oil has been shown to penetrate into the deeper levels of our hair fibers. This reduces the amount of water that hair will absorb when being washed and thereby reduce the risk of hydral fatigue.
  • Always seal after moisturising using slightly heavier oils like coconut and olive.

 

 

Low Porosity

Hair has low porosity if it is difficult for water and products to be absorbed by the hair. Hair with low porosity tends to remain moisturised for longer periods.

Hair will have low porosity if the cuticle layer is tightly compacted or closed, smooth and looks flat under a microscope. This state of the cuticles makes it difficult for moisture to penetrate the hair. Hair with low porosity dries slowly on wash days and is very resistant to chemical services like relaxers and hair colors. Low porosity hair tends to suffer from product build up because the products sit on the hair fibers rather than penetrate them. Low porosity hair can also suffer from dryness because it is difficult to replenish its moisture levels.   Low porosity hair tends to look healthy and smooth but can lack elasticity.

Tips for Managing Low Porosity Hair

  • Remove product build up on hair by using clarifying shampoos or shampoos that contains sulfates once a month.
  • Deep condition using moisturising conditioners with heat regularly. The heat tends to slightly liquefy the conditioner making it easier to penetrate the hair fibers. Heat also tends to open the cuticles to let the moisture in. Please note that protein conditioning should still be included in your hair regimen.
  • Use liquid sprays, mists or spritz, lotions and lighter products as these will be more easily absorbed than heavy creams. Further to this, lighter oils should be used because heavier oils will probably just sit on the hair making it greasy. Grapeseed and jojoba oils are examples of light weight oils.

 

Your hairs porosity can change over time, for example I used to have high porosity hair, especially at the ends of my hair. My hair is still slightly porous but certainly not as high as it used to be.
Please also note that different parts of your hair may have varying levels of porosity, for example your ends/tips are likely to be more porous than the roots/hair nearer to your scalp because the ends are much older and their cuticles would have gradually chipped, cracked and split over time.
If your hair has varying levels of porosity or if you are unsure of your porosity level, I would suggest that you use both protein and moisture conditioners regularly.  Alternate between heavier and lighter leave-in product UNTIL you find out what products works best with your hair.

I hope you have found this post helpful.  Do you know your hairs porosity? How do you manage it.
Coming up next is a bun of the month post.

x

Lade
Learn | Change | Grow

 

 

 

Texlax Update

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Hello ladies

As you can tell from the blog post title I texlaxed my hair which brought my 25 week stretch to an end. I intended to stretch for 22 weeks but was extremely busy a while back and couldn’t fit it in.

It turned out well and I followed my usual process which you can read here .

I air dried my hair after texlaxing because….I felt like it. On my next wash day I will blow dry my hair and take proper length check pictures.

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In other news, I got featured on Bella Naija last week as part of the Fro Friday series. It was such an honor to be featured on such a big platform.
One great thing about the interview was how the Beauty Editor referred to relaxed hair as relaxed natural. I have always seen my hair as natural albeit being chemically altered, it is still my natural hair growing out of my scalp. So saying my hair wasn’t natural never really sat well with me but I love the term relaxed natural, that most certainly works well for me.
If you would like to see and read my interview with Bella Naija please click here.

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Has anyone else relaxed or texlaxed lately? Are there any naturals reading this? How ‘s your journey going?

The blog post about porosity is almost done and will be up soon.
Happy hair journey
x

Hair Update: 5 Months Post Relaxer

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Hello ladies

Its hair update time!!
I am now 24 weeks post relaxer and my new growth has taken over.

I was supposed to texlax in August but due to exams and life I put it off for a while. I’ll probably texlax it in a week or so.  I switched to my wig regimen about 14 weeks ago (if you would like to see my regular hair regimen and wig regimen please click here).
As always wigs have been a life hair saver. I always recommend putting hair with a lot of new growth in a protective style to reduce day to day manipulation. This is helps to cut down the risk of breakage especially at the line of demarcation (where the relaxed hair and new growth meet).

Whilst following my wig regimen, whenever I had a wash day, I tend to leave my hair out for a few days and usually try to wear styles that take advantage of the volume my new growth gives me.   The pictures in this post is an example of the type of styles I like to wear when my hair is super due. I have been loving faux bobs recently.

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Because my hair is texlaxed there isn’t a great difference between my natural hair and chemically altered hair which makes blending the two textures fairly easy.  But don’t let me sugar coat stretching, wash days seem like so much work and detangling takes forever but in the end stretching relaxers is usually worth it if you keep up with your regimen.
That said I am counting down to relaxer day.

How many week s post are you? Is anybody else relaxing their hair soon?
My next post will about hair porosity, how to avoid and manage it.

x

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

Hair styles Catch Up

Hello Ladies

I have really missed blogging and I am glad I can finally dedicate some proper time to it after many busy weeks.
I had good intentions and created a few hairstyles I had planned to blog about but ended up not posting many of them.

I decided to share some of those pictures  with you in this blog post. They aren’t of much use just sitting in my laptop.

 

I cant wait to wear this style again

So many ladies thought I had cut my hair when they saw this picture on Instagram

I have sooooo much in store for Hairducation in September.
I hope you’ll come back soon.

Happy hair journey ladies.

x

Lade
Learn | Change | Grow