Lemongrass: My New Essential Oil

Hello ladies

I love love love using essential oils for scalp massages once or twice a week and my go to essential oils are rosemary and peppermint oils. I have been using these two essential oils mixed with Jamaican black castor oil for scalp massages for over 4 years now.  I intend to carry on using them but wanted to experiment with something new and decided to purchase some lemongrass essential oil.

DSC_5332

 

 

What Are the Benefits of Lemongrass Essential Oil for the Scalp

Lemongrass has antiseptic, antifungal, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. It contains vitamin A, B complex and vitamin c. It great for keeping our scalp healthy and for reducing the risk of scalp conditions. This is because it minimises the spread of bacteria and fungi so it is a natural cleanser. It is often said that lemongrass essential oil strengthens the hair follicles (the root of our hair), helps to reduce hair loss and relieve itching.

DSC_5324

 

 

How To Use Lemongrass Essential Oil in your Regimen

Essential oils are not ideal for sealing. They evaporate way to quickly to have any long lasting sealing effect. Also many essential oils are stimulating for living cells. Our hair fibres/ hair strands are dead and cannot be stimulated. Our scalp on the other hand is alive and will benefit imensely use essential oils.
All essential oils including lemongrass must be diluted before use. A few drops should be added to a carrier oil ( eg olive, coconut oil, castor oils, almond oil grapeseed oil, etc) before it is used. I tend to add about 5 to 6 drops of essential oil to a table spoon of my carrier oil.
The diluted lemongrass oil can be used in the following ways.

Pre-poo
The a few drops can be added to the carrier oil or conditioner you use as a pre-poo treatment. Simple apply to your hair length and leave it on for 30 minutes plus and then continue with your wash day. This is how I use lemongrass essential oil in my regimen.

Mixed Into Your Deep Conditioner
A few drops can be added to your deep conditioner. This will give have a stimulating effect on your scalp whilst you deep condition.

Scalp Massages
The diluted lemongrass oil can be used for scalp massages two or more times a week. I think i might add a few drops to my black castor oil for my scalp massages on my next stretch.

 

Please note that pregnant women should not use any essential oil unless they have been given permission by their doctor to do so.

I am very interested in learning about and using more essential oils. I think I may purchase some lavender or clary sage essental oils soon. What essential oils do you have and how do you use them on your hair journey?

The next blog post will be a giveaway. You dont want to miss it so come back soon.

X

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

 

Is Your Hair Scissors Damaging Your Ends?

Hello ladies

I have self trimmed my hair for many years now and plan to continue doing so in the future. I have always known that it was important to invest in good quality hair cutting scissors.  I was also aware that there were some do’s and don’ts of caring for your hair scissors.   Unfortunately I ignored these until very recently.

In the past, I used any kind of scissors to cut my hair but when I started a hair journey I bought my hair scissors from my local hair and beauty store at the time. The problem was that I took zero care of my scissors and that had some consequences for my hair.

In this post, I will share a little bit of information about why the scissors you use to cut your hair and how you maintain it matters.  I have learnt so much whilst carry out research for this post and I will post some links below to some sites that go even deeper for ladies or hair stylists who would like to lean more.

 

DSC_4153

 

The Design

Like many people, I knew that there are sooo many different types of scissors for cutting various types of material and fibres. I always assumed this was just to make the cutting process easier or smoother but I somehow failed to realise that the design also has a huge impact on the material being cut.

Using scissors that have not been designed to cut hair can cause cuticle damage to the areas that are being cut. So although your ends may look “fresh and healthy” when you fist cut them with the wrong type of scissors, what you will get is ends that are damaged as they are being cut.
These damaged ends will then split easily and quickly which means you will end up having to trim your hair more frequently. This can be avoided by using the right type of scissors

 

The Importance of Caring for Your Scissors

A good hair scissors should have sharp blades!!!!!   When I received my scissors, I gently touched the blade I was stunned and scared by how sharp it was.
A very sharp scissors is needed to give hair fibres that clean and smooth cut. A blunt scissors on the other hand will tear through the hair fibre damaging the cuticle and creating new splits although this may not be apparent at first.
If a blunt scissors has been used, usually within a week or two, the ends that looked sharp and felt smooth will begin to look frayed and feel rough again.

To avoid this happening, it is important that you use your hair scissors for cutting hair only and not other fibres like paper or fabric as this will cause the blades to become dull.
Please do not use your hair scissors to cut the hair of weaves and wigs even if they are labelled as 100% human hair or virgin hair.  Apparently such hair is usually coated or cleaned/treated with chemicals which can damage the scissors.
A lot of salons may not have scissors dedicated specifically for cutting the hair that grows on their clients head  but not for weaves and wigs so it may be best you invest in your own which you can take to the salon.

If you are really interested in learning more about the anatomy of a hair cutting scissors and how to maintain it please click on link 1 and link 2.

 

My Scissors and My Ends

I have tried and failed to buy hair scissors in Nigeria because the stores I buy my products from always seem to be out of stock.
I attended a Beauty Expo late last year and tried to purchase one there but the international company selling the scissors were very high end ( the cheapest one they had was on sale for $130 and I wasn’t willing to spend that amount). So I went on to good old Amazon UK and ordered one which at the time was on sale for £14. I think is very generous given the quality.

DSC_4161
What I love most about the scissors if the little gold circle/dial on the blades which I can rotate to increase and decrease the tension/tightness of the scissors. If the tension of the scissors isn’t right it will bend or fold the hair as it is being cut. It was when I did a little research on the importance of being able to adjust the tension of a hair scissors that I realised that I had actually purchased a really decent one.

I have used it twice so far and I really can see a difference. My ends look very neat and seem to be absorbing and holding moisture better which are a sign of healthy ends. I also find that I have that nice fresh trim look for much longer compared to when I was using blunt hair scissors.

 

 

A decent quality and well cared for scissors will help you retain more hair ( if length is one of your hair goals).  If you sell or know where to buy good quality hair scissors in Nigeria please do share.

I hope you have found this post informative. My next post will be my one month post relaxer update. Come back soon.

X

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

COLOURING HAIR WITH NATURAL HAIR DYES

Henna

Natural alternatives for dyeing hair have been available for many centuries and are commonly used amongst Indian women. Henna and Indigo are some of the most widely used all natural hair dyes and I will discuss what they are, how they are used and their pros and cons in this blog post. So if you are interested in colouring your hair and would rather stay away from the harsh commercial dyes this post is a must read.

HENNA

What is Henna and How Is It Used
Henna is a plant derived dye which is sold in a powder form that tends to be greenish in colour. The henna powder must be mixed with a low PH liquid such as lemon juice and this will cause the henna powder to release its dye. Some ladies add other natural ingredients such as honey and green tea to enhance the colour or richness of the henna. The paste is left to sit for about 8 or more hours to allow dye release to occur. The paste (mix of henna powder, lemon juice and other ingredients if added) can then be applied to hair and left on for a few hours.

Henna can be very drying because the deposits bind very well to the cuticles ( out layers) of our hair, similar to the way protein conditioners work. It is therefore important that you rinse your hair thoroughly and follow with a moisturising deep condition.

Henna paste

What Kind of Colour Can Be Achieved
100% henna can only give dark hair colours in the red(ish), brown(ish), orange(ish) or burgundy range. Any henna dye which claims to give hair colours outside this range is likely to have been mixed with other ingredients and may not be safe for use. Always purchase what is known as Body Art Quality (BAQ) henna for use on your hair. Sites such as…… and The intensity of the colour will depend on your own hair, how long you leave the dye on for and how regularly you use henna on your hair. If you would like to dye your hair a dark brown or black colour, indigo, which is another natural dye may be used after henna to achieve a dark colour. This will be discussed further below.

 

How Long Does It Last and How Often can You Use it
Henna hair dye is a semi-permanent hair colour and lasts for a few weeks. Henna can be used every 4 to 6 weeks. Foe ladies who are relaxed, it can be used two weeks after relaxing   your hair.

 

INDIGO

What is Indigo and How Is It Used Indigo is also a plant derived dye that comes in a powder form and is greenish in colour. When mixed with water to form a paste the powder will release its dye. Unlike henna the paste does not have to sit for hours for full dye release to occur. Indigo should only be applied after henna has been rinsed out. Using indigo alone will result in blue hair or the colour may not take.

What Colours can Be Achieved
When used after henna, Indigo will give hair a black or blue-black colour. How Often can it be used Indigo can be used after every henna application.

Pros of Natural Hair Colours

  • It can be used on all hair types and
  • It can be used on hair that has been previously coloured with chemical hair dyes
  • Temporaily thickens hair because the colour deposits sits on top of each hair fiber thereby increasing its diameter
  • It has strengthening and conditioning properties
  • It covers gray hair well.

Cons of Natural Hair Colours

  • It can be time consuming to prepare and use
  • It is temporary and will fade gradually over a few weeks.
  • Application can be messy and can stains your clothes permanently and your hands temporarily. So it is best you wear clothes you don’t care about during the process.
  • Some natural haired ladies note that henna loosens/changes their natural curl pattern….some ladies don’t mind this and this is actually a desired result for some.
  • They are not as readily available as commercial dyes. You have to either other them online, purchase them from Indian stores or healthy hair stores that carry natural treatments and dyes.

 

Patch Test
Please note that although henna and indigo are all natural some ladies may react to it. I recommend that you test them on a small section of your hair to ensure you do not have an allergy to either of them

Do Your Home Work
Please note that the content of this post gives an overview of henna and indigo. If you would like to use henna and indigo i recomend that you do more research on the various methods of making the paste and applying it on the reputable websites and good old YouTube.
And that is the basic gist on natural hair colours. Although I don’t use either henna or indigo at the moment I can see it in my future when i have loads of grey hair. Because I don’t plan on giving up texlaxing anytime soon , natural hair colours is most likely going to be my future hair colour.

 

My next post will be my hair update and a hair style pictorial.  Come back soon.

X

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

 

 

How To Buy Hair Products: Oils

grapeseed-oil

One of the items we begin to value and use a lot more at the beginnings of our hair journey is oils and butters.  Before my hair journey I never ever sealed my hair. I knew natural oils were good for our hair but didn’t use them on my hair.
I realised soon after starting Hairducation that some readers get a little confused about what types of oils and butter they should use.
I have written a post about oils on a hair journey which you can read here but this post will share a little more information and give a lot of good tips for buying oils for use on your hair journey.

In this post I will discuss the types of oils needed on a hair journey, how to use them, the best places to find them and what to look out for when buying them. Enjoy

 

Types of Oils Needed On A Hair Journey

Petroleum and mineral oils are common examples of synthetic oils.  These are okay when used as a sealant however they can’t be absorbed by hair and scalp.  It is therefore always better to use natural oils on a hair journey.
There are two main types of natural oils used on a hair journey, carrier oils and essential oils.

Carrier Oils and Butters
Natural carrier oils contains so many nutrients and vitamins which work very well on our hair and scalp and have so many uses on a hair journey. They are usually obtained from the fruit, nuts, seeds or kernels of plants.  Carrier oils commonly used on a hair journeys include
Olive, coconut, Jamaican black castor, almond, argan, avocado, grapeseed oils and shea butter.  Some ladies also use ayurvedic oils like Amla and Bhringraj oils

Essential Oils
Essential oils are optional on a hair journey.  They are not used for sealing. Many essential oils have anti bacterial and antifungal properties; they can also be very relaxing and refreshing and help to stimulate hair growth.  They are very potent or strong and must be diluted with carrier oils before use.  They should not be used by pregnant ladies without first consulting with your doctor.

 

How to Use Oils On A Hair Journey
 

Oils can be used  in the following ways

  • Pre-pooing
  • To seal in moisture ( essential oils should not be used to seal)
  • Can be mixed into conditioners
  • Can be used for scalp massages
  • As a lubricant to help with detangling
  • Some carrier oils like coconut oil are great for boosting shine
  • Can be mixed into relaxers for texlaxing ( essential oils should NEVER be mixed in with relaxers or used in the final week before relaxing or texlaxing)

 

Where To Buy Oils

Supermarket
Carrier oils are usually best sourced in your supermarket aisles because so many of them are used for cooking. Most supermarkets will have extra virgin cold pressed oils like olive oil and grapeseed oil on their shelves.  Look for them in the food aisles not in the hair and skin aisles.

Local Markets
For ladies in Nigeria and Africa in general most local markets will have butters like Shea butter or coconut oil available for purchase.

Healthy Food Stores
These are also a good place to find oils, butters and essential oils.  Most carry an impressive range of oils.

Your local BSS or Hair and Beauty Shop
You should be able to oils here as well.  A lot of these stores tend to sell mixed oils or blended oils which are okay so long as you buy the ones that are all natural  ( no petroleum, petrolatum or mineral oils).
A great thing about a lot of hair and beauty stores is that they are a good place to find ayurvedic oils.

 

How To Buy Oils- What You Should Look Out For

Make sure it is 100
100% natural that is.
The ingredients should be 100 natural and free from synthetic oils.  Preferably there should be only one item listed in the products ingredients.

 

Keep it Cold and Raw

olive
Try to buy oils that have cold pressed or extra virgin cold pressed written on the bottle.  This means the process of obtaining the oil from the plant was done without the use of heat.  Oils that are cold pressed and are still raw retain more of their nutrients and goodness in comparison to those created with heat.

 

Natural Mixes
Some ladies prefer to mix their oils themselves whilst others would rather purchase premixed oils.  Some brands of hair oils of greases are premixed and can be quite great.
If you decide to buy a premixed oil or hair grease, look through the ingredients listed and ensure it does not include synthetic oils.

 

Dark Bottles

castor oil
Extra virgin cold pressed oils and essential oils tend to be sold in dark bottles as this helps to block sunlight.  Sunlight can have an effect of the nutrients and quality of the oil so dark bottles are a plus.
Please note that some great quality oil brands are sometimes sold in clear jars or bottles.  This does not mean that they are not good quality.  All you have to do is keep oils out of the sunlight.
Don’t Rely on the Front Label
If a hair oil or grease/pomade is labelled as coconut oil, or olive oil, or shea butter, etc but when you look at the ingredients the items listed first are petrolatum, petroleum jelly or mineral oil,  put the oil down and walk away.

 

Special Tip For Buying Essential Oils
100% pure essential oils are usually sold in very small bottles (usually 10ml to 30ml).  This is because they are really strong and only a few drops is needed for each use.  Some companies however sell essential oils in quite big bottles and label them in large print as 100% of the essential oil, eg 100% rosemary oil or 100% tea tree oil.  However somewhere on the bottle in small print will be written “ this is 100% rosemary oil blended with almond oil”.

This isn’t really bad because it is an all natural mix, the labelling of such oils are however very misleading because many ladies buy these type of oils thinking that they are buying a pure essential oil.
I always recommend that ladies buy 100% pure essential oils as this allows them to blend it with their own choice of carrier oils and they can determine how much to blend themselves.

 

My Personal Favourite Oils

Through my hair journey I have always used the following oils, olive, coconut, Jamaican black castor oils.  For essentials oils rosemary and peppermint are my must haves.
I have tried many many many other types of oils but always come back to these five.
What are your favourite oils and how do you use it?

 

 
Initially intended to include advice for buying hair gels I this post but it would have been too long so I decided to just talk about oils for now. My next post will be a short and sweet styling post.  Now that I have committed myself I hope I don’t end up with epic fails
Come back soon ladies and happy hair journey

x

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow

HOW TO BUY HAIR PRODUCTS : Leave-in Conditioners

Hello Ladies

I hope you are all well. This blog post is the 3rd in the series on How To Buy Hair Products.
Today’s post will focus on leave-in conditioners. I intend to explain the uses of leave-in conditioners, the types of leave in conditioners that you need and what ingredients to look out for when buying them. I will also share a flow chart which will help you decide which leave in conditioner to use on your wash days and through the week.

 

What Are The Uses of Leaves-in Conditioners

A leave-in conditioner should be used after you have rinsed out your deep conditioner.
Leave-in conditioners helps to smoothen our hair and boosts its flexibility and strength. A good leave-in conditioner should also give your hair slip which will make detangling easier. Most leave in conditioners can also double-up as moisturisers for use in between wash days

What Types of Leave-in Conditioners Do You Need

On a hair journey you need two types of leave-in conditioners.

  • A protein leave-in conditioner – for strength
  • A moisture leave-in conditioner – for elasticity and softness

Although both protein and moisture leave in conditioners are needed, I should point out that moisture leave-ins tend to be used/needed more often than protein ones.

 

How To Buy Leave-in Conditioners

As I have mentioned in previous posts in this series, when buying products it is best to be familiar with the product ingredients rather than relying on what is written on the front of the product or in the description at the back . This is because many products claim to have many benefits for our hair but by being familiar with product ingredients, you can tell which ones can actually do what it claims.
Ingredients to look out for in a Protein Leave-in conditioner

  • Look at the ingredients at the back of the bottle or jar and see if the following ingredients are listed. Preferably one or more of these ingredients should be amongst the first 5 items found on the ingredient list. Keratin
    Collagen
    Pathenol
    Soy protein
    Silk protein
    Oat protein
    Wheat protein
    Amino Acids

Please note that some of these proteins may start with the word hydrolyzed, eg hydrolyzed wheat protein or hydrolyzed soy protein.

 

Ingredients to look for in a Moisturising Leave-in Conditioner

  • Look at the ingredients at the back of the bottle or jar and see if the following moisturizing ingredients are listed. Preferably one or more of these ingredients should be amongst the first 5 items found on the ingredient list.
    Aqua(water)
    Cetearyl alchohol
    Cetyl alchohol
    Stearyl alchohol
    Urea
    Glycerine
  • Please note that there are many more types of moisturising ingredients that may be found in moisturising leave-in conditioners. Those listed above are some of the most popular ones which are commonly used by product manufacturers.

 

How to Decide which Type of Leave in To Use

IMG_4177

 

My Personal Favourite Leave-in Conditioners

leave in conditioners
A) Cantu Shea Butter Leave-In Conditioning Repair Cream (protein)
B) Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave-in Conditioner  (Protein – with this product, I suggest that a very little quantity should be used and it is NOT suitable for daily use)
C) Elasta QP Feels Like Silk Leave-In H2 Conditioner (Moisture). The ingredients of this product has now changed but I haven’t tried the new version.
D) Luster’s S-Curl No Drip Activator Moisturizer (Moisture)
E) Herbal Essences Beautiful Ends (Moisture –  called Long Term Relationship in the U.S)

 

 

That’s the end of this post ladies. Knowing when and how to use moisture vs protein is something that so many newbies struggle with so I hope the flow chart/table helps.

 

I have a couple of really exciting posts coming up.
One is about a highly requested topic: how I care for the hair I leave out when wearing u-part wigs. This will also super helpful for ladies who wear weave-ons with some of their hair left out and are experiencing breakage of their leave out hair. It is going to be a great post and I hope you’ll be back soon to read it.

X

Lade

Learn | Change | Grow